TECHNOLOGY:

Data explanations

Hand Value of Textiles (RHV)

Definition: an index of properties, relative to a reference fabric, as determined by either an instrumental system or a subjective hand evaluation that can be used to predict tactile sensations a human perceives when handling a fabric.

Reference fabric: a fabric selected to represent a baseline for comparison of tactile properties of hand.

Remarks: RHV is the overall performance value of a fabric. If the reference fabric is the one you like the most, then for other fabrics, the smaller the RHV value, the better in overall hand, or vise versa.

3 fabric attributes

  • Resilience – How easy you can bend a fabric product with your fingers.
  • Softness - The compressibility judged by squeezing a crumpled piece of fabric in your hand.
  • Smoothness - How resistent when you slide your fingertip across a fabric surface.

Our client comments on the use of the hand parameters:

"In order to explore the applied value of PhabrOmeter3 fabric evaluation system in softening effect evaluation of terry towels,PhabrOmeter3 was used to measure the hand values of terry towels and the results were compared with those obtained from subjective evaluations. The terry towels,which were used for subjective and objective evaluations,were treated by dipping with 3 kinds of different softeners of two concentrations,respectively,and after conditioning they were subjected to subjective and objective evaluations. The results showed that PhabrOmeter not only provides a convenient and efficient way to test fabric hand,including resilience,softness,smoothness,draping value and relative hand value,but also reveals the effect of different softeners on fabric hand,and the difference between different finish concentrations. If sequencing the samples by softness degree,the order was consistent with that by the subjective evaluation. " - Tu, J.; Liu, J, Journal of Textile Research 34; 48-51, 2013

Fabric Drape Coefficient (DC)

Fabric drape refers to the fabric shape or profile when held at the edge, such as used for curtains, or the way a fabric covers an object when used as a tablecloth or a skirt, often refereed to in the latter cases as the fabric formability, and is resulted from fabric’s response towards gravity due to its own weight.

The importance of fabric drape is almost self-evident, but there is still no effective ways to measure this fabric attribute. The Cusick Drapemeter suffers from its low repeatability and low sensitivity, and is hence not widely or frequently used.

"Mechanically speaking, fabric drape is the fabric’s response towards gravity due to its own weight. However, fabrics with identical mass can show very diverse drape behaviors, determined by the same mechanical properties defining fabric hand. Therefore, it becomes obvious that fabric hand and drape are interconnected in a consistent way. Any difference in overall fabric hand, or in the individual hand attribute, can be used or interpreted as the difference in fabric drape behavior or fabric formability. The fabric extraction test is in fact a forced drape. " - Dr. Ning Pan, Professor of Univercity of California, Davis

PhabrOmeter can measure and evaluate fabric drap performance quickly and reliablly.

A smaller drape value – a better draped fabric.

Wrinkle Recovery Rate (WRR)

Wrinkle resistance and recovery is a major quality concern, especially for cotton fabrics, and the existing test methords are low in sensitivity, and often not correct or reliable.

Fabric wrinkle recovery is determined by the same group of mechanical properties as in fabric hand and drape. During a fabric extraction test, fabric samples experience complex wrinkles yet with high repeatability. Thus, by testing a fabric twice using the present system, with a given recovery time interval between the tests, any differences in terms of the defined fabric hand parameters can be used as indicators of the ability of the fabric to recover from a given wrinkle.

PhabrOmeter creates genuine wrinkle on fabrics, comparable to that in AATCC specifications, and measures fabric wrinkle recovery fast, with reliable and repeatable results, and over wide range of fabric types.

A larger wrinkle recovery rate value - a fabric with better wrinkle recovery.